File:Romantic Germany (1910) (14782486134).jpg

Identifier: romanticgermany00scha (find matches)
Title: Romantic Germany
Year: 1910 (1910s)
Authors: Schauffler, Robert Haven, 1879-1964
Subjects: Cities and towns -- Germany Germany -- Description and travel
Publisher: New York : The Century Co.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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urt Church, a little Byzantine pearl of a place thattransports one in a breath to the atmosphere of theCappella Palatina at Palermo; and the Basilica ofSt. Boniface, Ludwigs record of his most precioushours in Ravenna and Rome. But, of all the laterchurches, St. Annas is my favorite. Built of roughcoquina, its picturesque complex of gables, turrets,and spires grouped about the central tower is alreadyfinely weathered. The broad, walled terrace, themoated fountain borne on pillars, the deeply feltmodeling of the fa9ade, the portal worthy of somegreat medieval builder—all these blend in an ensem-ble the equal of which I have not seen elsewhere inmodern Romanesque architecture. All these churches are real places of worship. Onefinds there the same spirit of fervor that one expectsto find in Tyrol or Italy. And this is natural, for thecity grew out of a religious institution near by, andits very name—Ad Monachos, or At the Monks—stamps it as the child of Cloister Schaftlarn. The 328
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a^ THE CHURCH OF ST. ANNA MUNICH-A CITY OF GOOD NATURE whole daily walk and conversation of the people isconnected in some way with ecclesiasticism. Theysay of anything that moves rapidly: It runs like apaternoster; of a heavy drinker, He guzzles like aKnight Templar. A mild state of intoxication iscalled a Jesiiitenrduschlein; while an unfortunate inthe advanced stages is as drunk as a Capuchinfather. In Catholic communities farther north there is astrain of cooler intellectuality in the devotions of thepeople. Here all is emotion. In fact, until recentlythis lack of balance has had a grievous effect on IMu-nichs intellectual life, which can boast few writersof note. But it has, on the other hand, kept a warmplace in the hearts of the people for romantic legendsand superstitions. The Miinchener has clung somuch more successfully to these beliefs than to hismedieval buildings that the place gives the illusion ofhaving more atmosphere than its architecture wouldwarrant. The folk still

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