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A WORD FOR CRINOLINES.

TO THE EDITOR OF THE FAMILY DOCTOR.

SIR,-The discussion which followed the reading of Mrs. C. Stopes' most interesting lecture on " Dress," at the closing meeting of the British Association, certainly seems to indicate that some of those people who are most ready to give to the public their opinions on these questions hold themselves one-sided and unfair views. Only two ladies, Miss Finlay and Miss Lydia Becker, had a word to say in excu~e of the corsets which we all wear, and without which all but the slenderest of fi.~ures would appear unsightly. It is so often ignored that, while the natural waist cannot be improved upon in a nude statue, it often would not contrast sufficiently with the size of the bust to appear graceful when skirts, more or less boull"ante, are draping the figure froIn the hips down-wards.

But more especially unfair were the criticisms on crinolines. Nothing was said in favour of those ample garments which we wore-alas ! 'tis now twenty years since. Now, in my own experience, the short, looped-up" balloon" skirt and coloured pecticoat, coming no lower than the tops of the trim Balmoral boots, was hy far the most comfortable walking dress which we modern ladies have ever bad permission to wea.r, being both cool and light in summer, and warm in winter, while giving perfect freedom of action to the limbs beneath. By means of this fashion, whether for walking exercise, skating, or dancing, a young lady could retain the airinefls and freedom of her chHdhood's short frocks, while adopting a length of dress decorous for her more mature years. As for appearances. let anyone look at a picture of our Princess of Wales surrounded by her eight bridesmaids: or recall to mind some fair young dehutante of that epoch in all her billowy muslins, with many a snowy flounce and garland of flowers. Contrast with this the tight, dragging, "eel skin" dress and tie-backs of a later fashion-so quite unsuitable for healthy exercise of any sort. In all these matters, of course, there are cons. as well as pro's, not the least important of which was that a silk dress took up fourteen yards of material. But still, why not have some fairness in discussing even the much-maligned crinoline ?

Some of us may go yet farther, and agree (in whispers) that even the deadly high heels may have advantages I-I am, Sir, yours truly,

September 20, 18S9. EX-QUEEN CRINOLINE.

A WORD AS TO THE ORIGIN OF THE TIGHT CORSET. TO THE EDITOR OF THE FAMILY DOCTOR. SIR,-I wish someone who has a taste for the study of the archceology of costume, like the late 1\:1, Viollet le Duc displayed, would kindly take the trouble to write the history of Diana de Poictiers' steel breast-plate. I have always understood that she was in such perpetual fear of assassination that she wore armour under a tight-fitting velvet bodice, and the Court dames of Francis the First adopted boned or busk-protected corsets (though not in any peril of their lives) as a sort of sheepish imitation of that high-placed adulteress, the king's mistress. Surely any modest woman ought to regard a meretricious example as one to be shunned. The abominable cruelty of bearing reins was denounced; but no one ever thought it would be proposed in cold blood to imprison growing children's lungs and waists night and day in tight stays, however the ill taught may admire deformity. God is the author of Nature, and an young animals rejoice in freedom of movement. The loveliest action I ever witnessed was that of a fawn which had strayed from the deer browsing under the noble old forest trees in Woodstock Park. He took fright at the approach of a brother under-graduate of Oxford and myself, and rejoined the herd by bounding two hundred yards or so in a few graceful leaps. My friend and I were delighted, and we stood perfectly still in the hope of seeing such another sight.

I have written so plainly in your columns that no one can say I am for over-indulgence; but I have been ready to grind nlY teeth at the monstrous pretensions of the corset maniacs. The sight of a figure attenuated to the finished condition of "F. F.'s" ambition reminds me of Indian women who compres children's scul1s, and Chinese pictures of deformed Image:TheFamilyDoctorOct5_1889page89.png

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