File:Decorative textiles; an illustrated book on coverings for furniture, walls and floors, including damasks, brocades and velvets, tapestries, laces, embroideries, chintzes, cretonnes, drapery and (14596653679).jpg

Identifier: decorativetextil1918hunt (find matches)
Title: Decorative textiles; an illustrated book on coverings for furniture, walls and floors, including damasks, brocades and velvets, tapestries, laces, embroideries, chintzes, cretonnes, drapery and furniture trimmings, wall papers, carpets and rugs, tooled and illuminated leathers
Year: 1918 (1910s)
Authors: Hunter, George Leland, 1867-1927
Subjects: Embroidery Tapestry Textile fabrics Lace and lace making Wallpaper Decoration and ornament
Publisher: Philadelphia and London, J. B. Lippincott company Grand Rapids, The Dean-Hicks company
Contributing Library: Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute Library
Digitizing Sponsor: Federally funded with LSTA funds through the Massachusetts Board of Library Commissioners

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the passing of the bobbin through the shed. The third great step was the substitution for treadles of a drawboy (hence the term draw loom) who was mounted on a platformabove the warp, where he pulled cords or leashes that raised or loweredthe warp threads as the pattern required, vastly increasing the pos-sible complexities of weave. The draw loom, invented and devel-oped by the Chinese to meet the exigencies of weaving the exquisitelyfine threads of silk, first made possible and practicable the productionof damasks, brocades and velvets. The fourth great step was the invention of the Jacquard attach-ment in the time of Napoleon. This attachment was merely amechanical contrivance, but it supplanted the draw boy, just as thedraw boy had supplanted treadles, and just as treadles had sup-planted the weavers left hand. It vastly increased the speed andaccuracy of weaving, and so lessened the cost of producing intricatepatterns that ever since then intricate patterns have been available 2
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Plate I—DAMASK MADE IN AMERICAFrom an old Italian original DECORATIVE TEXTILES for the least expensive purposes, provided the quantity used is suf-ficiently large. Once the pattern is punched on a series of Jacquardcards, and the loom is mounted, it is just like playing a pianola orworking a hand organ. Repetition is easy and costs little. Diligenceis more important than intelligence, and the weaver need not havethe slightest art knowledge or feeling. The fifth great step was the application of power (water, steamor electricity) to do the work of both draw boy and weaver. Thisgreatly increased speed, while relieving the weaver of most of hismanual labour, and setting him free to superintend the operation ofseveral looms. However, the more complicated and exquisite velvetsand brocades continue to be woven on hand looms, but with theJacquard attachment. THE WEAVE OF DAMASKS The fundamental and modern weaves I shall analyse and illus-trate in Chapter IV. Suffice it here to say that damdecorativetextil1918hunt

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