File:Cyclopedia of textile work - a general reference library on cotton, woollen and worsted yarn manufacture, weaving, designing, chemistry and dyeing, finishing, knitting, and allied subjects (1907) (14772734915).jpg

Identifier: cyclopediaoftext06chic (find matches)
Title: Cyclopedia of textile work : a general reference library on cotton, woollen and worsted yarn manufacture, weaving, designing, chemistry and dyeing, finishing, knitting, and allied subjects
Year: 1907 (1900s)
Authors:
Subjects: Textile industry Textile fabrics
Publisher: Chicago : American school of correspondence
Contributing Library: Claire T. Carney Library, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth
Digitizing Sponsor: Claire T. Carney Library, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth

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ning sul stance(called a mordant) to lix satisfactorily and fully develop thecolor. Tliis classification has been used ever since, but of late therehas been a constant tendency to replace the term substantivedye with that of direct color, and adjective dye with theterm mordant color. As exam()les of substantive or direct colors, we might men-tion turmeric, indigo, and the direct cotton colors; and asexamples of adjective or mordant colors, alizarine and related dye-stuffs, logwood, and fustic. The above classification is not entirely satisfactory, therebeing many dyestuffs that are substantive toward one fiber andadjective toward another. Tlie basic colors, for instance, are sub-stantive toward wool fiber but adjective toward cotton ; while theacid colors are substantive toward wool but have no direct affinityfor cotton. Again, there are the insoluble azo colors, like thecommon Para and Naphthylamine reds, that cannot in tlie tiuestsense be considered as belonging to either class. 122
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TEXTILE CHEMISTRY AND DYEING 113 Another common method is to classify dyestuffs according totheir source into (1) Natural Dyestuffs: (a) Vegetable.(b) Animal. (2) Mineral Dyestuffs. (3) Artificial Organic Dyestuffs. Though the various divisions of this chissification, particu-larly the artificial, are quite sweeping in tlie number and characterof the dyestuffs they include, they have the advantage of concise-ness, and one class does not overlap another. The natural dyestuffs include such coloring matters as log-wood, indigo, fustic, cutch and-cochineal. The mineral colors include prussian blue, chrome yellow, ironl)uff, and a large number of inorganic pigments. The artificial organic dyestuffs are the most important,and this class may be divided into twenty or more importantsub-classes. It includes all of the so-called coal-tar dyes, such asmagenta, benzo-purpurin, acid violet, tartrazine, alizarine, etc. It is this latter classification that we shall follow. THEORIES OF TEXTILE COLOR

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